Pazette

2012

Molded plastic, fabric, feathers, faux leather, plastic, cardboard

Part (Box): 15 1/2 × 9 1/2 × 3 1/2 in. (39.4 × 24.1 × 8.9 cm)
Part (Doll with headress): 16 1/4 × 8 × 2 1/2 in. (41.3 × 20.3 × 6.4 cm)

Gift of Phyllis Magidson Kulaga, in honor of Stephen Burrows

2022.19

Fashion designer Stephen Burrows, the first African American designer to achieve international acclaim, designed Pazette in 2012, one of a trio of couture-attired Barbie dolls commissioned by Mattel. Burrows moved to New York City in 1962 to attend the Fashion Institute of Technology and by 1970 had opened his own boutique at the luxury department store Henri Bendel. He rose to international fame in 1973, when he was selected as one of five American designers to participate in the so-called Battle of Versailles fashion show. Burrows’ groundbreaking designs were heavily inspired by the New York City disco scene of the 1970s, and he pioneered bold color blocking and undulating lettuce hems. He championed African American models, including his primary muse, Pat Cleveland (b. 1950). According to Burrows, Cleveland was one of the inspirations for Pazette, along with Black actress Josephine Baker (1906-1975), who donned a sequin bodysuit and feather headdress at the Battle of Versailles. Mattel released Pazette as part of their Gold Label Collection. The doll, created as a collectible and not intended for play, was produced in limited quantity and retailed originally for $100. The packaging describes Pazette as a “retro showgirl” who “makes a show-stopping entrance that wows any audience—from the catwalk to the stage and beyond.” In 2013, the Museum of the City of New York launched the retrospective "Stephen Burrows: When Fashioned Danced," curated by Phyllis Magidson. Burrows worked closely with Magidson and gave her the doll at time of the exhibition’s opening as a token of their friendship.

DescriptionMolded plastic Black female doll with bodysuit of glittery silver fabric with mesh, sequins, and feathers; face with silver eye make-up and pink lipstick; dark hair styled in chignon; headpiece with white feathers; original cardboard box.

MarkingsPrinted on outer box: STEPHEN BURROWS / PAZETTE™ / GOLD LABEL® COLLECTION

ClassificationsTOYS